Knitting machine



Filedlpril 15, 1931 Fig. l.

10 Sheets-Sh'eet 1 3 /NVEN TOR April 19, 1932. 5 1,855,033

KNI'ITING MACHINE Filed April 15, 1931 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig. 2.

April 1932. E. SPIERS 1,855033 KNITTING MACHINH Filed April 15, 1931 10Sheets-Sheet 3 IN V[ N TOR April 19, 1932. E. SPIERS KNITTING MACHINEFiled April 15 1931 10 Sheets-Sheet 4 1 Fig. 4.

Fig.l0. 84 37 87 86 10 Sheets-Sheet 5 E. SPIERS KNITTING MACHINE FiledApril 15 1931 April 19, 1932.

April 19. 1932. E. SPIERS KNI TTING MACHINE 10 Sheets-Sheet e FiledApril 15,- 1931 1......IIIIIIIII EHE! April 19, 1932. SP|ERS 1855033KNITTING MACHINE Filed April 15, 1931 10 Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed April 15,1931 10 Sheets-Sheet 9 F ig. I5. Fig. I6.

108 MW w 107.

//VVENTOR April 19, 1932. E. SPIERS KNIT'TING MACHINE Filed April 15,1931 10 Sheets-Sheet 10 Patented Apr. 19, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE ERNES'I. SPIEBS, O]?

LEICES'IER, ENGLAND, A BRI'IISH COMIPANY A KNITTING MACHINE Applicationfile(1 April 15, 1931, Serial N0. 530,383, and in Great Britain May 19,1930.

This invention relates t knitting machines and has for its object animproved warp knitting machine of the straight bar type for the purposeof producing tubular fabric. The primary ai1n of the invention is toprovide an economical 1nachine of the straight bar type capable ofproducing fashioned seamless non-laddering hosiery, e. g. ladiesstockings, of fine quality, although the invention is not to loeregarded as limitecl in this respect as the machine 1nay be adaptecl toproduce non-ladclering tubular fabric, fashionecl 01' non fashioned forunderwear 01' other body garments anal ot-her purposes.

According t0 this invention there 1s provided a warp knitting machinecomprising parallel needle beds for two independent series ofindividually movable needles, one o1" more series of thread guides f01'each series of needles for lapping th1eads over said' needles to produceknitted webs, auxiliary thread guides x'or lapping threacls overneeclles in both series to unite the knittecl webs to form tubularfabric, means for eflecting va'ri ations in the number of needlesforming loops as knitting proceeds to produce fashioned fabric, an dmeans for correspondingly a(ljlting the auxiliary threacl guiding means.

There is also provided according to this invention a warp knittingmachine of the straightbar type furnished with curved nee dles to carrywhich parallel neeclle becls furnishecl with arcuate grooves or tricksare employecl. The advantage of providing curved needles is that byreason of their curvature the needles in the respective series functionin paths which do not cross each other, and consequently it is possibleto locate the needles in one series directly opposite to the needles inthe other series wit-h a minimum of space between opposing needle headsand also to employ a greater number of needles to the inch withsuflicient space between adjacent needles in each series for the passage0f the threads for lapping purposes. In short, a fine gau.qe machine canbe providecl, and, Consequentl-y work of fine quality can be procluced,especially whenas is preferred be:irded needles are used.

The invention also includes as a feature,

provision for reinforcing o1 splicing the fab- 1ie o1 desired areas orportions thereof more particularly thougl1 not necessarily exclusivelyin a warp knitting mach ine designed for tl1 ep1oduction of fashionedseamless hosiery as previously alluded to herein. F01 exam'ple, 111 amachine aclapted to produce fashioned fabric-the one or more series ofmain thread guides for each series ofneeclles may be divicled andarranged so that one division 01 group may be moved lengthwiserelatively to the othe'sr division o1 group so that the threads suppliedby two 01 more divisions or groups nre lapped on 01 over the sameneedles.

Means may also be provided for shifting one. d1Vision or grol1p ofthreacl guides gradually in relation to the other division 01 group inthe Same series.so that the c0nfiguration of the spliced or reinforcedarea may loe CO1- respondingly varied.

\Vhen bearcled needles are enployed the machine includes means forpressing the beardS in association with web holders ancl knocking overbits or elements, such as of the form previously referred to herein, andmeans f01 actuatir1g the presser o1 pressers and Web holders.

I Will DOW describe by way of example and with teference to theaccompan-ying drawings a n1achine embodying all of the featureshereinbefore mentioned, such machine being designed for the productionor' fashioned seamless stockings of non-laddering fabric.

Inthe drawings:

Figure 1 is a sectional end view of ehe machine.

Figure 2 is a sicle elevation of the machine.

Figure 3 is a transverse section of the machine taken online IIIIII ofFigure 2.

Figure el i s a plan of one of the needle beds and the associated needleseleeting means.

Figure 5 is a plan view of the sinker bed and sinker actuating mechanismand shows a few 0f the sinkers.

Figure 6 shows a portion of' the knocking ov er bar.

Figure 7 is a plan of the needle presser and the actuating meanstherefor.

Figure 8 is a side elevation of a pair of main thread guides and themeans for actuatformed curved or ing the same, as used for knitting anonfashioned tube of fabric.

F igure 9 is a sectional detail of said guide actuating means.

F igure 10 is an end elevation of an oscillatory carriage, threadguicles arranged for use in the production of fashioned hosiery, andmeans for oscillating the carriage.

Figure 11 is a plan view 0f the guides shown in Figure 10 and thecarriages therefor.

F igure 12 is a sidoelevation of the guides used for splicing purposesand the means for efl'ecting relative lengthwise adjustment thereof.

Figure 13 is a side elevat-ion of aux1l1ary guides used in theproduct-ion of fashioned hosiery and means for adjusting tl1e samelongitudinally for fashioning purposes.

Figure 14 is an end elevation and Figure 15 is a side elevation of camsfor eflecting the adjustment of the splicing guides aI1d theauxiliaryguides, and tl1e means for controlling said cams.

Figure 16 represents diagrammatically a stocking as produced by means ofthe improved machine.

Figure 17 is a plan view of mechanism for enabling both series ofneedles to take the same threads for one or moreoourses at thecommencement of knitting. said mechanism being located at the riqht handend o1 the thread guiclesviewing 'the latter as shown in Figure 11 andbeing shown in the inoperative position.

Figure 18 is a plan viewof alle same mechanism in operation.

Figure 19 is a sectional side elevation of the mechanism in'the positionshown in Figure 18; and

Figure 20 is an end elevation of the sa1d mechanism in the sameposition.

Figures 1 and 2 are drawn to a smaller scale than Figures 14, 15 and 16,which latter are drawn to a-smaller scale than Figures 3, 5 anal 7, andFigures 8 to 13 and 17 to 20 are drawn to a larger scale than Fi,qures3, 5 and 7, und to a smaller scale than Figures 4 and 6. Like parts aredesignated by the Same reference characters.

This machine is preferably provided with indepenclently slidable beardedneedles arranged back to back, so that the needles in one series aredirectly the other series in two parallel needle beds 1 having concaveouter surfaces in which are arcuate grooves 2 for the reception of thecorrespondingly shaped neodles 3 furnished with butts 4 ab their lowerends.

The hooks of the curved needles are located on the ooncave sicle so thatwhen the needles are located in. their beds the tail ends of theopposing needles diverge. Another advantage therefore isthat adequatespace is proopposite to the needles in vided for the accommodation ofneedle beds of ample size, and for the passage of the knitted fabric,zind, if necessary, for the accommodation of take-down mechanism infairly cl'ose proximity 150 the point at which the fabric is knitted.

Associated With these beds are other grooved beds 5 for web holders 6,und knocking over bars 7. The web holder beds have convex portions 8which oppose the concave surfaces of the needle beds and serve to holdthe needles in their beds.

The nee.dle and web holder beds are mounted in 0r upon end frames 9suitably braced so tl1at as shown in Figure 3 the two series of needlesfunction in substantially vertical planes with the sinkers or webholders and pressers Operating in a horizontal plane.

The machine is furnished with a single cam shaft 11.

F or operating the needles 3 we may provide, in association with the twoseries respectively, corresponding selecting elements 12, barshereinafter referred to, and jacquard clevices 01 any known or otherconvenient form.

Conveniently the selectors are furnished with tails 14 and there areprovided jacquard bands 15 having perforations 16 formed thereinaocording to the order in Which the neerlles are to be caused to knit,said bands being carried by drums 17 formed with grooves 18 with whichthe perforations in the bands register, whereby then the bands arepresented to the associated selectors, the tails of the selectors whichregister with perforations pass through the latter into the grooves 18so .that the corresponding selectors are not selected for operation uponthe needles. The drums are carried by swing arms 19 mounted 0n shafts 20extending between and fixed in the end frames 9 see F igu1es 1 and 2,said arms being actuated to carry the drums and bands towards and fromthe associated selector beds by means of face cams 22 on the carn shaft11, said arms being fitted with rollers 23 carried by lugs 24 for thispurpose. The drums are fitted respectively with ratchets 25 which areengaged by pawls 26 carried by fixed arms 27 so that when the jacquarddevices are swung away from the selectors the drunis are racked round toirnpart the requisite movements t-0 tl1e jacquard bands. Check pawls 28are provided to hold the bands in position after each movement. The

needle selectors are carried in beds 29 in register With the needlebutts 4 so that their inner ends can be projected -under the butts asthe result of the action of the jacquard device on the outer endsthereof, as shown at the left band side of Figure 3. The beds 29 arecarried by arms 30 mounted 011 rockshafts 31 supported by bearings in oronthe end frames 9. Carried by tl1 e arms 30 are bars or plates 32furnished with lips 33 arranged so as 'po extend over the butts of theneedles as shown in Figure 3. The axes of the rockshafts 31 are locatedso that when the selector beds are oscillated the inner ends of theselectors move in a path concentric with the concave faces of theopposing needle beds. The rockshaft-s are operated by means of levers 34and cams 35 on the aforesaid cam shaft so that the selectors, selectedby the jacquards, ankl the aforesaid bars 01' plates respectively impartup and down movement 130 t-he selected needles.

The mahine is equipped with thread guide members designated 36 37, 36a,37a, 38, f1nd represented somewhat diagrammatically in Figures 1 and 3said members having holes such as 39 therein to guide the threads to theneedles und being carried bycarriages 40 respectively pivotally mountedby means of shafts 41 011 the end frames 9. The seid guide members arearranged parallel with each other above the pivotal axis as representedin Figures l and 3, for endwise movement to lap the threads about theneeclles.

The carriages a1e oscillated by means of eccentrics 42 011 the cam shaft11 through the medium of racks 43 associated with the eccentric straps44 and pinions 45 keyed on the shafts 41. There is a set of main guidemembers for euch series of needles, and between these two sets, anauxiliary slide 38.

F01 producing non-fashioned tubular fabric I may provicle in assooiationwith each needle bed, a set of two main thread guide members constitutedby slides such as 36,37, 36a, 37a, Figures 1, 3 und 8, saic1 slidesbe1ng furnished with a series of holes 39 to gui le the threads 130 theneedles. The auxiliary guide 38 may be constituted by a similar singleslide furnished with a hole 01 holes 39 at eaoh end. The main'slides ineach sei; are used to lap thefhreads held thereby over the seleotedneeclles in the oorresp0nding series for knitting two similar pieces offabric and the auxiliary slide laps the threads held thereby overneedles respectively at opposite ends of both series of operativeneedies for the purpose of uniting t-he said pieces of fabric at theiredges i. e. by sutures.

The lapping movements of all of the aforesaid guide members may beimparted in one direction by springs 46 onone carriage and in the otherdirection by o1 cams such as 47 on a spindle 48 mounted in bearings 49011 the other oarriage und racked round by pawl and ratchet mechanism50, 51 operated by a cam 52, Figure 1, appropriately fixed on one of theend frames 9 of the machine so as to be engaged by a roller 53 011 apawl lever 54 as the carriages 40 rock first in one direction and thenin the other direction, i. e. from the position shovvn by dot and dashlines to that shown by full lines in Figure 3, ancl vice versa, it beingunderstood that the endwise movement of the slides is effected inappropriate timed relation to the up and down movement of the selectedneedles by suitable prearrangement of operation of the cams 47.

The springs 40 n1ay be constituted by resilient fingers formed with o1applied to a plate 46a attachecl to the appropriate carriage.

The wheels or cams for the main slides are so arranged und operated thatthe main slides for each series of needles are shogge l respectively inoposite directions, see Figure 8, i. e. when one of the slides 1noves tothe left the other moves to the right, and vice versu, the shoggingmovement being (afl'ected after the threads have been passecl betweenthe operative needles, i. e. those Which ale mised by the selectors ofthe corresponding series, by the guide melnbers swinging from the backt0 the front of said needles so that the threads ere crossed in front ofthe operative needles below the hooks as represented in Figure 8. F01example, considering Figures 3 and 8, when the carriages'40 are swungover to the position shown hy full lines the threads a and b held loyehe guide members 36, 37 respeotively a1 e passed between the operativeneedles, e, g. those shovvn raised, of the adjacent bed, whereupon theguide mernbers are shogged endwise as aforesaid and the threads areorossed so that when the oarriages are swungz m er to the other positionthe crossed threads a, Z), are laid upon the stems of the seid needlesbelovv ehe hooks so as to be engag ed b v the hooks when. the neecllesare caused 130 descend Joy ehe action of the associated bar 32.Sinriilarly when the carriages take up the p0sition shown by dot anddash lines in Figure 3 the threads c, d are passed betvveen theoperative needles of the other bed and then the guide members 36a, 37apare shogged respectively in opposite directions so that whentheearriages are again swung in the other direction the threads c, d arelaid upon the corresponding operative needles below the bearcls and indue c'ourse are takten thereby, when they in their turnare oaused todescend. By reason of the swinging movements of the carriages undanpropriate enclwise movements of the auxiliary member 38 conj ointlywith the movements of the needles, the threads held by the auxiliaryguide member i. e. ab the ends thereof respectively, are lapped over theendmost rieedles of those operated in each course so that seid needlesknit the said threads and thereby j oin together the courses forrned bythe needleswhich knit the main threads. It will be understoocl that thethread guide members are arranged so that the thread's a, b,l1e1d bythe' guicles 36, 37 pass beaween the operative neeclles of the left handbed viewing Figure 3 anal ahnt the threads c, d hold by the guides 36a,37 a pass between the operative neeclles of the other be l when the carriages swing from side to side as already explained without beingengaged by the said needles. Also When the guides in each set have beenmovecl opposite[y fo1 one course of knitting they are rnoved in thereverse manner i. e. back to their original positions for the nextcourse.

v The Web holders 6 in each of the beds are each furnished with a notchor recess 55 nea1 one end thereof and are operated by a transverselymovable bar 56 furnished with a strip 57 ior insertion into the notches.the saicl bar being mounted 0n the bed 5 ancl actuated by levers58pivoted 0n the bed by means of blocks 59 and pins 60 und bifumated o1slotted as shown at 61 for engagement with pins 62 in the bar 56. Thelevers 58 are engaged.by other levers 63 pivoted at 64 in the machinefran1e and oscillated by zroove czuns 65 on the 021m shaft 11 inappropriate time l relation wit-h the needle movements. The bar is thuspositively actuatecl in both directions.

The knocking over bars 7 (see Figure 6) are furnished with openings 66ancl fixed horizontally on the web-holder beds so as to enable theneedles to W01'k through the openin srs whereby during deseent 0f theneedles the old loons thereon are knockecl over.

F01 pressing the beards of the neerlles I provide transversely movablebars 67 euch suitabl v shaped along one eclge for action upon thecorresponding needle beards and operable by cams and suitableintermediate connections.

Conveniently, as shown in Figures 3 and 7, each pressei bar is slidablyniounted on the oorresponding be l 5, said bar having sl'ots 68 thereinand being held in position by means of stud ancl nut fastenings 69 thestuds of which pass through the slots 68 Whereby the requisitetransverse movements of the presser bar are permitted. The transversemovements are imparted by springs 70 and levers 71 fitted With screws 72for engagement with the bar and pivoted at 73 011 the end frames foractuation by cams 74: 011 the ca1n shaft 11.

As already alluded to herein it is mainly my intention to provicle amachine capable of producing seamless fashioned hosiery of the formrepresented diagra mmatically in Figure 16 i. e. having a fashi0ned toet, a foot f, aheel h made by narrowing eind widening, a fashioned leg Zand a fashioned top T.

It is also my intention 150 comrnence knting at the toe end of thearticle a1'1d to fashion the same by widening. Following the formationof the toe 25 and foot f and heel h ancl ankle portion, the leg portionZ is Widened by introducing additional neecllesby means of the jacquardand neeclle selectors hereinbefore described-at one end only of thegroups of needles already in nction, and adjustment of the auxiliaryguide member in a, manner to be hereinafter more portionlarly'described. At the commencement of means of the character described theknitting operation one 01 each series of main thread guides may beoperated as will be hereinafter described so that both series of needlestake the same threads, the initial courses of the toe being therebyinterlocked. During the formation of the toe and foot of the article acertain number of threads i. e. those which form the part Z 0f the legand T of the top normally would be idle. T0 economize in thread Ipropose 130 use some at least of these threacls for splicing o1reinforcing purposes e. g. for splicing the toe, foot bottom, heel and.forming a high splice m which may be tapered, stepped or of some othersuitable form. T0 this end the main thread guide members foreach seriesof needles are divided and the sections are arranged in pairs with onepair sei: back with respect to the other pair so as to enable one pairt0 be movecl endwise relatively to the other pairapart from beingshogged end- Wise as a whole for lapping purposesso that the number ofthreads supplied to desired needles is correspondingly increased.Provision is also made for shifting the splicing sections graclually soas to enable the width of the spliced areas to be reduced gradually asfor example from the full width of the t0e 25 to the foot bot-torn f,and from the heel h to the termination 0f the high splice w, by shiftingthe said sections back towards their original positions A convenientarrangement is shown in Figures 10 and 11 and in Figure 11 the parts 0fthe guide members which actually hold the threads are shaded foxclearness. A designates in each sei; of guide members the sections whichserve the needles onwhich the narrowest portions of the articles areproduced, and in conjunction With A, serve needles in the product-ion ofthe widerportions of the article and are usecl for splicing purposes.Since the arrangemen-t and operation is the same in each set, only onearrangement need be considered for the purpose of the followingdescription. In Figure 11 the sections are shown in position forknitting the widest portion of the article, i. e. the top T. The guidesect1ons A consist of single plates which are slidably mounted in thecarriages 40a and to which lapping movements are imparted by ence to Figures 8 and 9. The guide sections B comprise respectively outerelements 7 5 and 7 5a and inne? elements 76, 7 6a carried slidably bythe outer elements, e. g. b v means of angle plates o1 pins in the oneof the outer element's and a slot in the other. The outer elements areslidably mounted in the carriages 40a ancl are shogged bodily for threadlapping purposesby means 0f the form described with r-ference t0 Figures8 and 9,

of which act upon approp riate cam wheels format-1ons such as 77. Forsplicing pur.-

B designates the sections which,

with referposes the element 76 is moved to locate its thread holdingpart alongside that of the guicle member A and the element 7 6b ismovecl to a position wherein the inner ends of the thread holding partsof the two elements slight-ly ove1lap so as to provide the requirednumber of the splicing threads, the reson for this being that theelements 76, 76a hold a less number of threads than the momber A so thatit i s necessary to supplement the number of the threads hold by theelement 76 by some at least of the threadsheld by the eleme nt 76a. Theelements 76, 76a remain in this position during the fonnation of the toet and then for gradually reducing the widfh of the splicing e. g. alongthe lin'es S and S2 the elements are gradually racked back towards theiroriginal position at appropriate intervals. T0 enable the movements ofthe said elements in both directions to be eflecteclautomatically thefollowing const-ruction is provided. The element 76 is formed with rackteeth 78 and pinions 79 mounted 011 a spindle 80 rotatable in bearings81 on theouter elements 75 so as to mesh with the rack teeth. Thespindle 80 also has fast thereon ratchet wheels 82, 83 engagedrespectively by pawls 84, 85

pivoted on a lever 86 freely mounted on the spindle 80 and furnishedwith a roller 87 and operated by a cam arrangement comprising a track 88and pivotally movable cams 89. see Figures 14 and 15, on the adjacentend frame of the n1achine, the roller being acted upon by the camarrange- 1nent as the carriages .40a oscillate. The pawl 84 and ratchetwl1eel 82 efi'ect the movement of the element 76 into the splicingposition and the other pawl 85 and ratchet wheel 83 eflects the reversemovement, the operation of the pawls being dependent upon the positionof the cams 89. When the pawl 84 is caused to engage the wheel 82 thepawl 85 works inoperat-ively over a blufl' 90 forme(l by the roundedends of the barings 81. \Vhen the pavvl 85 iscaused to engage the wheel83 the pawl 84 Works on the blufl". The

element 76a is moved at the required time and to the requisire extent incompany with and by means of the element 76, for which purpose thelatter has thereon a pivoted' catch 91 adapted to engage a notched plate92 on the element 76a. When the element 76 is being racked into the.splicing Position it first moves independently of the element a since ithas to move further. Eventually however tho catch 91 comes into,register \iifli (Im notoh in the plate 92 whereupon thv Moment 76 picksnp the element 761 and (mries it along with it into the r =quirerlposition. \Vhex tho elemonts T6, 76a take up thei1' snlici'ng: positionsthe operation of the pawl 84 is interrnptocl b v nlacing the (ums 89 in21 neutral position so tlxat said elements remain in tho splicingposition nntil they are next article.

to be moved in the reverse direction i. e. racked out to reduce thewidth of the splicing for the footbottom f, whereupon the pawl 85 iscaused to operate by moving the cams 89 back to their initial positionand the two elements move together until the required reduction has beeneffected, the operation of the pawl 85 thereupon being againinterrupted. Upon completion of the foot bottom and heel h the pawl 85is again caused to operate for the production of the high splice w.VVhen during the racking out wot1on the element 7 6a reaches itsoriginal position the two elements are disconnected as the result of theengagement of .tl1e catch 90 With a cam formation 93 on one or each ofthe outer elements 75, a, after which the element 76 moves alone untilit also reaches its original position whereupon the operation 0f thepawl is again interrupted, and the said elements remain in this positionuntil they are to be racked in again for splicing the I1: Will ofcourse.be understood that ehe racking in and out movements aforesaid aretimed to take place when the threads are clear of the needles. The carns89 are controlled by means of a face cam 94 racked round by pawl andratchet mechanism 95, 9-6, 97, operated by the eccentric strap 44through a lever 98 fulcrumecl at 99 on the adjacent end frame and fittedwith a roller 100 for engagemen t with the strap. The cam 94 operatesthrough mechani sm comprising a lever 101 fulcrumed at 102 and connectedby a link 103 With another lever 104 pivoted at 105, said lever beingconnected by means of a pin and slot connect-ion 106 and a plunger 107with a plate 108 in turn conneoted by pin and slot connections 109 withlevers 110 attached to the pivot pins 111 of the cams 89. The cam 94 isdesigned so that the cams 89 are held in an inactive position as shownin F igure 14 or raised or ldwered so as to cause either the pawl 84 ort-he pawl 85 to operate according to requirements.

The heel of the article is produced by widening and narrowing onappropriate needles selected by the jacquards and needle selectors.

F or adjusting the auxiliary thread guide member in accordance withvariations in the number of needles operated in diflerent courses, saidmember is also made in two sections 112, 113 slidably mounted end to endbetween outer elements 114. The sections 112, 113 are furnished withholes 39 to hold the threads and the inner sections and outer elementsare moved as a whole for lappin-g purposes by means of the form alreadydescribed with reference to Figures 8 and 9. The. sections 112, 113 arefornied with rack teeth 115, 116, for engagement respectiVely by pinions117, 118 in spindlesll9, 120 carried by bearings 121, 122 on thesections 114. The spindles 119, are furnished respectively With ratchetwheels 123, 124, and 125, 126 and pawls 127, 128, and 129, 130 arecarried by levers 131, 132 freely mounted on the spindles and fittedwith rollers 133, 134. As the carriages 40a oscillate these rollers workin cam tracks formed between arcuate members 135, 136 suitably fixed 0nthe end frames and each of' these cam tracks has associated therewith aswitch.cam 137. By tl1e movement of these switch cams to diflerentpositions one 01 both of the spindles 119, 120 may be rotated eitherclockwise or' anti-clockWise, or allowed to remain stationary, dependingon whether either or both of the sections'll2, 113 are to be movedoutwards 01' inwards or to remain unadjusted. T hu s for the t0e portionof the article the sections 112, 113 are both moVed outwards asadditional needle are brought into action at both ends of the operativ'eseries in successive courses imtil the numbef required for the foot areinoperation, and then the section 112 remains unadjusted throughout theformation 015 thefoot ahd leg, while the section 113 is adjusted outwards arid inwards in a cc0rdztnce with the gradual increase and dec rease'f t be numb r of needles during the form'alin 0f the heel andoutwards during-f;shibning i. e. whila the number of needles in actionis increased at one end of the operativ "xaeries in success1ve coursest0 form tl1e yv1de'r 0x fash1oned portions of the artiCle. 1

' Each 0f the switch cams is controlled for the purpose afo1esaid by agroom cam 138 and intermediate mechanism comprising a lever 139 fast ona rockshaft 140 und furnished with a roller -141to work in the camgroove, a lever l42.ilink 143, lever 144 and a pin 145 0n which the'camis mounted. The cam 138 i s formed in the periphery of the blank inwhich the face cam 94 is formed.

A feature of the machine designed produce fashioned fabric is that thethreads are wound 011 separate bobbins 146 preferably f a constructionsimilar to the bobbins emloyed in a lace machine. In this connection 1tis preferred 130 provide half as many hobbins and main thread guideholes 39 in each series as there are needles in the corresponding bedand to knit first 0n alternate needles in one bed, then on alternateneedles in the other bed, then on theremaining needles of the first bed,and then on the remaining needles 0f the second bed, the jacquard band01' equivalent a'ssociated with each bed being set out so that w hen oneseries of perforations is brought opposite to the selectors 12 thealternate selectors are sel ected as represented in Figure 4. ancl Whenthe next series of perforations is brought into the selective positionthe other selectors are selected. T he purpose of this is to avoid theneces'sity for providing abn0rmally thin bobbins for 1156 on a finegauge machine. Time is also saved in setting up the machine forknitting. The perforations in one series are preferably staggered inrelation to Lhose of the next adjacent series and alternate selectorshave their butts 14 ata higher level than the butts of the remainingselectors, as shown in Figure 3, so that for a fine gauge machine theperforations Inay be made at the re-' quired pitch without impairing thestrength of a comparatively thin band.

It will be undelrstood that there is a set cf bobbins for each series ofmainguides am]. two or more bobbins for the axiliary guides. Preferablythe several sets of bobbins are 'arranged radially with respect t0 thepivoted axis 0f the 0scillatory carriages in whieh the aforesaid slidesare mounted, so that the between guide rods 150 from which the.

threads extend substantially radially with respect to ehe pivotal axisof the aforesaid carmages The selectors 12 are furni'shed with butts 12afor engagment by operable members 151 as shown in Figure 3 whereby theselected selectors are restored t0the normal position subsequent totheir action upon the corre- Sponding needles. Each ofthese members 151conveniently consists of a metal strip fixed 011 a shaft 152 furnishedwith cams 153, see Figure 2, and pivotally and slidably mounted in thearms 30. Associated and parallel with each of the shafts 152 is a rod154 fixed in the same arme: 30 and furnished with cams 155 forco-operation with the cams 153 whereby when the shaft 152 is movedendwise in one direction, i. e. to the' right, the co-acting cams 153,155 cause the shaft to turn With the result that the member 151 actsupon op1aosing selector butts 12a and restores the corres pondingselectors to their normal position as shown at the right band side 0fFigure 8. The said turning movement of the shaft-s 152 may be eifect ed1gainst spring action and the endwise mo'vements may be efl'ected alsoagainst spring action by means 0f cam pieces, one 0f which is shown at156 in Figute 2 on the cams 22, said cam pieces acting on rollers, oneof which ap'pears at- 157 in Figure 2 on the adjacent ends respectivelyof the shafts.

T'o enable both series of needles to take tl1e same threads for one 01more courses at the commencement 0f knitting f01 the purposehereinbefore set forth, I may provide at one end 0f the pairs of mainguide members 114 a plurality of teeth 158 for engagement by a pawl 159carried by a plunger 160 slidable in the adjacent oscillatory carriagesa ancl actuated by means of a cam 161 movably arranged on the adjacentend frame 9 of the machine. Conveniently the pawl 159 is pivoted on theplunger 160 and c0ntrollecl by a spring 162 operating through a poppetpin 163 in the plunger so that the pawl is held up to the teeth 158 butcan yield when required to slide over same. The plunger 160 is engagedby a lever 164 pivoted ab 165 on the carriage 40a ancl furnished with aroller 166 for engagement with the cam 161 pivoted at 167 on theadjacent end frame 9, whereby when the cam is rendered operative asshown in Figs. 18 and 19 the lever is movecl againslt the action of aspring 168 to operate the plunger 160. The cam 161 is moved into thepath of the roller 166i. e. from the normal inoperative position shownin Fig. 17 to the operative position shown in Fig. 18 at the appropriatetime during the swinging movement of the guide members 114 by means ofan eccentric 169 0n a cam actuated rockshaft 170 and by action Upon thelever 164 causes the pawl 159 to shift the guide members 114 endwise inthe direction of the arrow (Fig. 17), when between the two sets ofneedles 3 as shown in Fig. 20 so that the said unembers, after havinglapped their threads over the needles of the right band bed, are in aosition t0 engage the saure threads with the operative needles of theother i. e. the left band bed instead of passing said threads i(llybetween the said needles as occurs after the initial courses aspreviously set forth herein. A catcl1 171 controlled by a spring 172 isprovicled on the carriage 40a for engagement with the lever 164 asrepresented in Fig. 18 to hold the guides in this position until the.guide members have swung fron1 the back to am]. the guide n1embers areshifted back to their original position by their own springs (see 46Fig. 8) so thac when swung in the opposite direfztion the threadsbecorne completely lapped round the needles. Any suitable means may ofcourse be adopted for actuating the rockshaft 170 to renrler the cam 161ope1'ative and inoperative in timed relation to the cycle of operationsof the machine. When the ca1n 161 is rendered definitely imperative thepawl 159 is clisengage l from the teeth 158 by a bluff plate175 on thecarria.qe 40a so as to prevent any interference b the pawl with thesubsequent lapping movements of the thread guide membiars 114 Und81 thecontrol 'of the cam 47 (Figures 8 and 9) as previously described herein.

VVhat I claimed then is 1. A warp knitting machine comprising parallelne-edle beds, two independent series of individually rnovable neeclles,one or 1nore series of thread guides for each series of nee lles forlapping threads over said needles to produce knitted webs, auxiliarythreacl guides for lapping threacls over neeclles in both series tounit-e the knittecl webs '00 form tubular fabric, means for eflectingvariations in the nu1nber of needles forming loops as knitting proceedsto procluce fashionecl fabric, means for correspondingly adjusting theauxiliary threaol guidirig means, anal rneans for causing the needles toknit.

2. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel -needle beds, twoindependent series of individually slidable needles arranged back toback, one or more series of thread guides for each series of needles forlapping tl1reads over said neeclles to produce knitted webs, auxiliaryth're.ad guides for lapping threads over needles in both series to unitethe knitt zd Webs to form tubular fabr-ic, means for effectingvariations in the number of neeclles forn1ing loops as knitting proceedsto produce fashioned fabric means for cor respondingly adjusting theauxiliary thread guiding means, and I11eans for causing the neeclles toknit. Y

3. A warp knitting machine of the straight bar type which incluclescurved neeclles, means for feecling threads fo said needles, an l meansfor causing the needles to knit.

4. A warp knitting machine Which inclucles inclividually movable curvedneedles, parallel ncedle beds furnished with arcuate grooves in whichsaid needles arc arrangecl so as to provide two series back to back,means for feeding threacls to said" neerlles, and means f rr causing theneedles to knit.

5. A warp knitting machine which includcs individuallv movable curverlneedles, parallel needle be ls furnished with arcuatc grooves in whichsaidn-ecrlles are arranged so as to provide two serics back to back,threacl lapping means for each series of neerlles to produce twoindepenclently knitted webs. auxiliary thread lapping means common toneedles at the ends of both series f'or joininq said webs at the e lgesto prodnce tubular fabric, and neans for causing said neelles to knit.

6. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel neerlle beds,hvoinrlependent series of imlividually movable ourved needles ar rangeclback to back respectively in arcuat3 grooves or tricks in said l:e ls.one or more series of threarl quides for each series of nee- (ll@s forlapping threads over said needles to pro lucc knitted webs. auxiliarythread guides for lapping threa'cls ovcr neerlles in both series tounite the knitted webs to form tubular fabric, means for efiectingvariations in the number of needleg forming loops as knitting'proceedstoprocluce fashi0ned fabric, means f0r correspondingly adjusting y theauxiliary thread guiding means, and means for ca'usi1ig the needleS toknit. 1

7. A warp knitting machine c0mprising parallel needle becls, twoinclependent series of individually movable needles, one or 1nore.

means for reinforcing 1:he fabric where de-- sired.

8. A warp knitting machine which includes individually movable curvedneedles, parallel needle beds furnished with arcuate grooves in whichsaid neeclles are a1ranged so as to provide two series back to back,thread lapping means for each series of needles to produce tWoindependently knitted webs, auxiliary thread lapping means common 130needles at the ends of both series for joining said webs at the edges toproduce tubular fabric, means for causing the said needles to knit, andmeans for reinforcing'the fabric where desired.

9. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable curved needles arrangecl backto back respectively in arcuate grooves 01' tricks in said beds, one ormore series cf thread guides for each series 0f needles for lappingthreads 0Ver said needles to produce knitted webs, auxiliary threadguides for lapping threacls over needles in both series to unite theknitted webs to form tubular fabric, means f01' elfecting va1imti0ns inthe number 'of needles forming loops as knitting proceeds to producefashioned fabric, means for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliarythread guicling means, means for reinforcing the fabric where desired,ancl means for causing the needles to knit.

10. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable needles, one 01' more seriesof thread guides for each series of needles for lapping threads oversaid needles und divided into groups arranged so that one group can bemoved lengthwise relatively to the other group, auxiliary thread guiclesf01 lapping threads over. nee dles in both series, means for efl'ectingvariations in tl1e number of needles forming loops as knitting proceeds,means ;for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliary thread guides, andmeans for causing the needles to knit.

11. A warp lmittingmachine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable curved needles a1- rangedback to back respectively in arcuate grooves in said beds, one 01 moreseries of threa'd guides for each series of needles for lapping threadsover said needles and divided into groups arranged so that one group canbe moved lengthWise relatively to the other group, auxiliary threadguides for lapping threads over needles in both series, means forefl'ecting variations in the number of needles forming loops asknit-ting proceeds, means for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliarythread guides, and means for causing the needles 130 kni 12. A warpknitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, two indepenclentseries of individually movable needles, one or more series of threadguides for each series of needles for lapping threads over said needlesand divided into groups arranged so that one group can be movedlengthwise relatively t0 the other group, means for shifting one groupo1 division gradually in relation to the othpr group in the same series,auxiliary thread guides for lapping threads over neeclles in bothseries, means for eflecting variations in the num ber of needles formingloops as knitting proceeds, means for correspondingly adjusting theauxiliary thread guides, and means f01 causing the needles to knit.

13. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable curved needles a1- rangedback to back respectively in arcuate grooves in said beds, one 01 moreseries of thread guides for each'series of needles for lapping threadsover said needles and divided into groups arranged so that one group canbe moved lengthWise relatively to the other group, means f0r shiftingone group or division gradually in relation to the other group in thesame series. auxiliary thread guides for lapping threads m er needles inboth series, means for' efl'ecting variations in the nurnber of needlesforming loops as knitting proceeds, means forcorrespondinglyadjustingthe auxiliary thread guides, and means forcausing the needles to knit.

14. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds for twoindep'endent series of individually movable needle s two series ofthread guides for each series of needles, means to cause said series 0fguides respectively to lap in opposite directions, auxiliary threadguides for lapping threads 0Ver'needles in both series to unite theknitted webs to form tubular fabric, means for effecting variations inthe number of needles forming loops as knitting proceeds to ploducefashioned fabric', means for c'orresp0ndingly adjusting the auxiliarythread guiding means, and means for causing the needles to knit.

15. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds for twoindependent series of individually slidable needles arranged back toback, two series o'f thread guides for each series of needles, means tocause said series of guides respectively to lap in opposite direetions,auxiliary thread guides for lapping threads over needles in both seriesto unite the knitted webs t0 form tubular fabric, means for eflectingvariations in the number of needles forming loops as knitting proceedsto produce fashioned fabric, means f0r correspondingly adjusting theauxiliary thread guiding means, and means for causini the needles toknit.

16. warp knitting machine which includes individually movable curvedneedles, parallel needle beds furnished with arcuate grooves in whichsaid needles a1e arranged so as to provide two series back 170 back, twoseries of thread guides for each series of needles, means to cause saidseries of guides respectively to lap in opposite directions, auxiliarythread lapping means common to needles als the ends of both series forjoinin said webs at the edges to produce tubular fa ric, and means forcausing said needles t0 knit.

17. A Warp parallel needle beds, two independentseries of individuallmovable curved needles arranged back to ack respectively in arenategrooves or tricks in said beds, two series of thread guides for eachseries of needles, means to cause said series of guides respectively tolap in opposite directions, auxlapping threads iliary thread guides forlapping threads over needles in both series to unite the knittecl websto form tubular fabric, means for eflecting variations in the number ofneedles forming loops as knitting proceeds to produce fashioned fabric,and means for c0rrespondingly adjusting the auxiliary thread guidingmeans.

18. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable needles, two series of threadguides for each series of needles and divided into groups arranged sothat one group. can be moved lengthwise relatively to the other group,auxiliary thread guides for over needles in both series, means forefl'ecting variations in the number of needlesforming loops as knittingproceeds, means 'for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliary threaclguides, and means for causing the needles t0 knit. v

19. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series cf individually movable needles, two series of threadguides for each series of needles, and divided into groups arranged sothat knitting machine comprising one group can be moved lengthwiserelatively t0 the other group, means for shifting and means for causingthe needles one group or division gradually in relation means wherebyfor at v least one course at the commencement of the kniting action oneat least of said sets of thread guides is operated so that initiallyboth series of needles are caused to take the same threads, auxiliarythread guides for lapping threads over needles at the ends oi bothseries to unite the webs at the edges, and

means for causing the needles to knit.

21. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependentseries of individually movable needles, sets of thriaadguides for said series of needles re' spectively for lapping threadsover the needles t0 produce two knitted webs, means whereby for at leastone course at the commencement of the knitting action one at least ofsaid sets of thread guides is operated so that initially both series ofneedles are caused to take the same threads, auxiliary thread guides forlapping threads over needles at the ends of both series tp the webs atthe edges, means for var'ying fliilmmber of needles rendered active asknitting proceeds, means for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliarythread guides, and means for causing the needles to knit.

22. A warp knitting machine c0mprising individually movable' curvedneedles, parallel needle beds in which said needles are arranged so asto provide two series back to back, sets of thread uides for said seriesof needles respectively orlappin threads over the needles to produce two%nitted webs, n1e'ans whereby for at least one course at thecommencement of the knitting action one at least of said sets cf threadguides is operated so that initially both series 'of needles are causedto take the same threads, auxiliary threacl guides for lapping threadsover needles at the ends of both series to unite the webs at the edges,and means for causing the needles to knit.

23. A warp knitting machine comprising individually necclle beds inwhich said needles are arranged so as to provide two series back toback, sets of thread guides for said series of needles respectively forlapping threads over n1ovable curved needles, parallel webs at the edgesmeans for varying the number of needles renclered active as knit tingproceeds, meailsfofcorrpondingly ad justing the auxiliary ihread guid esan l means for causing the 'needles to knit.f.:

24. A warp knitting. machine conipris'iflgi parallel needle beds, two;inde1 enclent series of individually m0v,ble rtaedles sets "of threadguides for' sa ids'exles .ofneedles re-" spectively for lappi'ng threadsover the correspondirig needles and each divided into" groups arrangedso that one group can be moved lengthwise with respect to the othergroup, means whereby for at least one course at the commencement of theknitting action one at least of said sets of guides is operated so thatinitially both series of needles are caused to take the same threads,auxili-ary thread gu'ides for lapping threads over needles respectivelyat the ends of both series t0 unite the webs at the edges, means f0rvarying the number of needles rendered active as knitting proceeds,means for correspondingly adjusting the auxiliary thread guides, analmeans for causing the needles to knit.

25. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twoindependent series of individually movable curve'd needles arranged backt-o back respectively in arcuate grooves in said beds, sets of threadguides for saicl series of needles respectively for lapping threads overthe corresponding needles and each divided into groups arrangcd so that'one group ca n be moved lengthwise with respect to the other group,means wl1ereby for at least one course at the commencement of theknitting action one at least ofsaid sets cf guides is operated so thatinitially both series of needles are caused to take the same threads,auxiliary thread guides for lapping threzds over needles respectively atthe ends of both series to unite. the webs at the edges, means for varing the number of needles rendered active as itting proceeds, means forcorrespondingly adjustingthe auxiliary thread guides, and means forcausing the needles to knit.

26, A war knitting machine comprisiflg parallel need e beds, twoindependent series of needles, sets of thread guides for said series ofneedles respectively, and 'each dileast of said sets of guides isoperated so that initially both series of needles are caused to take thesame threads, auxiliary thread guides for lapping threads over needlesrespectively at the ends of both series to unite the webs at the edges,means for varying the number of needles rendered active as Imittingproceeds, means for correspondingly adjust ing the auxiliary threadguides, and means for causing the needles to knit.

27, A warp knitting machine comprising two indepenclent series ofindiviclually movable curved needles arrahged back to back respeetivelyin arcate grooyes' in parallel bes,sets of thtead ""gide5- fo1; saidseries of needlesjrespectiyely .and;6ach 'divided into groups jarranged, 'so;tha t one ygroup can be moved lengthwise withf}rkespetztt0 the Other group means foxishifting. one gr'oup grad- 1 1allyintelation totlie0ther g{1o1ip, means wherebyf'or at least o'necojrse atthe Commencement of the kni ttirig action one at least of said sets .ofguides is operatecl so that initially both series of needles are causedto take the same threads, auxiliary thread guicles for lapping threadsover needles respectively at'the ends 0f both series to unite the websat the edges, means i'or varying the number of needles rendered actiw*eas knitting proceeds, means for corresponclingly adjusting the auxiliarythread guides, and means for causing the needles to knit.

28. A warpknitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, twdseries ofindependently slidable bearded needles in saicl beds respectively, setsof threacl guides for said series of needles respectively, means foroperating the thread guides for thread lapping purposes, auxiliarythrea(l guides for lapping threads over needles at the ends of bothseries, means for operating the auxiliary guides, means for operatingthe needles, means for pressing the needle beards, web holdersco-operating with the needles, knocking over means, and means foroperating the pressing means-and the web holders.

29. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds two seriesof curvecl bearded needles arranged back to back, said needles beingsliclable independently in arcuate grooves in said beds, sets of threadguides for said series of needles r'espectively, means for operating thethread guides for thread lapp1ng purposes, auxiliary thread guides forlapping threacls over needles at the ends of both series, means foroperating the auxiliary guides, means for operating the needles, meansfor pressing the needle beards, web holders co-operating with theneedles,

vided into groups arranged so that one groupi -knocking over means, andmeans for operatcan be moved lengthwise with respect to the other group,means for shifting one group gradually in relation to the other group,means whereby for at least one course at the commencement of theknitting action one at in'g the pressing means and the web holders.

30. A warp knitting machine comprising parallel needle beds, two seriesof independent needles in said beds respectively, main and auxiliarythread guide members for said

